Can you put a new toilet flange over an old one? (2023)

Can you put a toilet flange on top of another flange?

A toilet flange extender fits over the existing flange to raise the drain connection in relation to the surrounding flooring. (Plastic flanges typically can't be removed because they're glued to the drain pipe.) Some flange extenders are plastic rings that come in various thicknesses.

If the closet flange is lead and installed on the outside of the pipe, you will have to remove the old flange and re-caulk it, and then pour a new lead joint. You can also install an expanding one on the outside, but that would require breaking up the floor to get the flange down into the floor.

If pieces are loose, they can be removed by hand. Then, apply a liberal amount of 100% silicone sealant to the top of the existing flange. Inset new Johni-Bolts into existing ring slots if still in place. Be sure the bolts are centered with the toilet flange opening and parallel with the wall behind toilet tank.

You can buy an extra-thick wax ring, or you can just buy two rings and stack one on top of the other. I would buy the type that has the rubber insert in it as it directs the waste down the hole. Once you stack the wax rings, line up the bolt holes and push the toilet down towards the floor.

Our Verdict. For flanges that sit even or above the floor, the Everbilt Reinforced Wax Toilet Bowl Gasket is our best overall pick. It has a classic standard wax ring base and a convenient built-in plastic funnel.

For a plumber, replacing a toilet flange is a quick and easy job. Replacing a toilet flange costs $145 to $165 on average.

A best practice is to install the toilet flange on top of the finished floor. If you install the toilet flange flush with the finished floor, or even below the finished floor, leak paths will form, because the flange won't be at the correct height to accept the horn at the bottom of the toilet.

The choice of toilet flange depends on the material of the DWV pipe it is being connected to. That means, if you have a PVC pipe connection, you should install a PVC closet flange. A cast iron connection will require a cast iron toilet flange, and so forth.

Caulk prevents a fouling area. If mop water, bathtub water, or a less pleasant “bathroom liquid” gets underneath the toilet, there is no way to clean it up. Caulking around the base of the toilet will prevent this from happening.

Why does my toilet flange keep leaking?

The leak is usually caused when the seal under the toilet fails. Below you'll learn how to install a new wax gasket to create a watertight seal between the toilet and the closet flange and install a new flexible water-supply tube.

The toilet flange needs to be on top of the finished floor. Meaning the bottom edge of the flange needs to be on the same plane as the toilet. So if your toilet sits on the tile, the flange needs to be on top of the tile too. The spacing of the toilet exit "horn" and sealing surface is designed for this height.

Every toilet in your home has a wax ring connecting it to your plumbing, which creates a waterproof seal to keep what goes down to the sewer from seeping out the sides. This piece of equipment usually lasts as long as the toilet, about 30 years.

Carefully tighten the bolts with a wrench which will tighten the toilet down against the floor. (Don't overtighen.) Usually, if tank bolts are loose on a leaking toilet with a wax ring, even tightening them will not stop a leak. Once the wax shape is compromised, the seal is pretty much done and needs to be replaced.

I cleaned the existing flange and used silicone between the flange and spacer and then I screwed it to the floor. The manufacturer recommends using no more than 3 spacers per application.

Place the wax ring on the closet flange, not on the toilet. Pick up the toilet and set it evenly over the closet flange, making sure the bolts come through the bolt holes in the toilet base. Fine-tune the toilet position, so it's right where you want it, then push it straight down so it smashes the wax evenly.

Wax rings have been the go-to seal for plumbers for years. The wax (which can be made from beeswax, petroleum or other ingredients depending on the manufacturer) provides a pliable seal between the flange and the toilet bowl.

A toilet that is not level or centered could continue to leak water. Tighten the bolts with a wrench and replace plastic caps.

The best thing to do is to replace the flange early. We recommend replacing after 6 or 7 years. If you are not confident in replacing the flange on your own, you should contact a professional plumber.

Plumbers usually charge for their work by the hour, and the national average cost is about $100 per hour plus a service fee or minimum charge. Overall, hourly rates for plumbing can range from $25 to $200, depending on the experience level of the plumber and on the repair needed.

How often does a toilet flange need to be replaced?

The wax keeps water from leaking as it passes from the toilet to the drain pipe. It also seals against foul sewer gas odors. A wax seal will often last the life of the toilet, 20 or 30 years, without needing to be changed.

Caulk keeps your toilet secure the floor, and avoids any chance of injury or toilet malfunctioning. It's actually required by the International Plumbing Code to caulk a toilet to the floor, and now knowing the reasoning behind it, why would you not want to?

If you're installing a new floor, pedestal sink, and toilet, you should install the laminate flooring first so it's under the sink and toilet. Because laminate flooring floats above the sub-floor on top of underlayment, it will expand and contract slightly with the temperature and humidity of the room.

Install the New Toilet Flange

Secure the new flange to the subfloor with the provided hardware. If no hardware was provided, use wood screws or cement screws, depending on your subfloor material.

In plumbing, a closet flange (also known as a toilet flange) is a pipe fitting (specifically, a type of flange) that both mounts a toilet to the floor and connects the closet bend to a drain pipe. The name comes from the term "water closet", the traditional name for a toilet.

Four by Three. This is the market's most common size of flanges and fits most toilets. The top part has a diameter of four inches, and the bottom part has a diameter of three inches. The top opening connects to the toilet, and the bottom part attaches to the drain that leads to the sewer line.

If you plan to replace your toilet flange and wax ring yourself, all of the supplies you need will usually cost under $40. If you're using a cast iron flange rather than a PVC flange, your total installation cost will be closer to $75. The national average cost to have a plumber replace your flange is around $175.

The floor around the toilet feels springy or spongy. This is a sign that the flange is leaking, allowing toilet water to soak into your subfloor and making it less rigid. This can lead to wood rot, which can be a safety issue and will require additional repairs.

The main reason people give for not caulking around toilet bases is that they feel it could hide leaks. If left undiscovered, the resulting damage could become severe. Without caulk, the leaking water would flow out freely and be noticed right away, the theory goes.

What is the brown stuff at the base of my toilet?

Green or brown stains are a sign of lime buildup. It happens because of the evaporation of hard water that leaves behind mineral deposits. These minerals dry out and catch other dirt and bacteria around the buildup, creating layers of green and brown stains.

The flange should be fastened to the floor. Dry fit the toilet to make sure it doesn't rock. If it does rock, use shims to prevent rocking - just tightening the bolts probably will not stop the rocking but will risk cracking the toilet or breaking the flange.

Once the flange is in place, you need to drill holes for the screws in the concrete. You will need to use a concrete drill bit that is slightly smaller than the screws. The number of screws you need will depend on the size of the flange. Most flanges require four screws to hold them in place.

Remove the toilet flange by unscrewing it from the floor. If the screws are in good condition, save them. You may need to pry out pieces of the old flange with a chisel and hammer. If the flange is really stubborn, it can help to cut it into pieces with a Dremel tool.

A best practice is to install the toilet flange on top of the finished floor. If you install the toilet flange flush with the finished floor, or even below the finished floor, leak paths will form, because the flange won't be at the correct height to accept the horn at the bottom of the toilet.

For those that don't already know, the proper toilet flange height is when it's flush with the top of the finished floor. The optimum height is about ¼ inch. It's easier to get your flange flush with the floor if you lay your flooring before you install the flange.

If you do have the problem of a too-short flange, there is a fairly easy solution. It's called a toilet flange spacer, or a toilet flange extender. They are available in different sizes based on different needs; some even have rubber or silicone gaskets attached that get inserted into the existing flange.

Unlike a standard flange, which is centered on the waste pipe, an offset flange is off-center—that lets you shift the location of the toilet by a couple of inches (left, right, forward or back).

The toilet flange needs to be on top of the finished floor. Meaning the bottom edge of the flange needs to be on the same plane as the toilet. So if your toilet sits on the tile, the flange needs to be on top of the tile too. The spacing of the toilet exit "horn" and sealing surface is designed for this height.

Replacing a toilet flange costs $145 to $165 on average. However, that's assuming no other complications pop up. Your costs could easily run into the hundreds or even thousands if a broken toilet flange is difficult to remove, or if you have excessive water damage.

What is code for toilet flange?

405.4.

Floor flanges for water closets or similar fixtures shall be not less than 0.125 inch (3.2 mm) thick for copper alloy, 0.25 inch (6.4 mm) thick for plastic and 0.25 inch (6.4 mm) thick and not less than a 2-inch (51 mm) caulking depth for cast iron or galvanized malleable iron.